Как настроить на нужный PkgConfig в vcpkg?

Проект cmake в MS VS 2022 17.12.4 CMakeLists.txt :

    # CMakeList.txt: файл проекта CMake верхнего уровня; проведите глобальную конфигурацию
# и включите сюда подпроекты.
#
set(CMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE, "e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/scripts/buildsystems/vcpkg.cmake")
set(PKG_CONFIG_EXECUTABLE "e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/installed/x64-windows/tools/pkgconf/pkgconf.exe")

cmake_minimum_required (VERSION 3.8)

# Включение горячей перезагрузки для компиляторов MSVC, если поддерживается.
if (POLICY CMP0141)
  cmake_policy(SET CMP0141 NEW)
  set(CMAKE_MSVC_DEBUG_INFORMATION_FORMAT "$<IF:$<AND:$<C_COMPILER_ID:MSVC>,$<CXX_COMPILER_ID:MSVC>>,$<$<CONFIG:Debug,RelWithDebInfo>:EditAndContinue>,$<$<CONFIG:Debug,RelWithDebInfo>:ProgramDatabase>>")
endif()

project ("gtkmmproj")

# Включите подпроекты. 
add_subdirectory ("gtkmmproj")


find_package(PkgConfig)
pkg_check_modules(GTKMM_VARS REQUIRED IMPORTED_TARGET gtkmm-4.0)

CMakePresets.json:

    {
        "version": 3,
        "configurePresets": [
            {
                "name": "windows-base",
                "hidden": true,
                "generator": "Ninja",
                "binaryDir": "${sourceDir}/out/build/${presetName}",
                "installDir": "${sourceDir}/out/install/${presetName}",
                "cacheVariables": {
                    "CMAKE_C_COMPILER": "cl.exe",
                    "CMAKE_CXX_COMPILER": "cl.exe",
                    "CMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE": "e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/scripts/buildsystems/vcpkg.cmake"
                },
                "condition": {
                    "type": "equals",
                    "lhs": "${hostSystemName}",
                    "rhs": "Windows"
                }
            },
            {
                "name": "x64-debug",
                "displayName": "x64 Debug",
                "inherits": "windows-base",
                "architecture": {
                    "value": "x64",
                    "strategy": "external"
                },
                "cacheVariables": {
                    "CMAKE_BUILD_TYPE": "Debug"
                }
            },
...
            
        ]
    }

Вывод в консольке:

1>     MSBuildLoadMicrosoftTargetsReadOnly=true
1> Командная строка: "C:\Windows\system32\cmd.exe" /c "%SYSTEMROOT%\System32\chcp.com 65001 >NUL && "C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\CMake\bin\cmake.exe"  -G "Ninja"  -DCMAKE_C_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_CXX_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE:STRING="e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/scripts/buildsystems/vcpkg.cmake" -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:STRING="Debug" -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX:PATH="E:/userData/Documents/msvs/gtkmmproj/out/install/x64-debug"   -DCMAKE_MAKE_PROGRAM="C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\Ninja\ninja.exe" "E:\userData\Documents\msvs\gtkmmproj" 2>&1"
1> Рабочий каталог: E:/userData/Documents/msvs/gtkmmproj/out/build/x64-debug
1> [CMake] -- Checking for module 'gtkmm-4.0'
1> [CMake] --   Package 'gtkmm-4.0' not found
1> [CMake] CMake Error at C:/Program Files/Microsoft Visual Studio/2022/Community/Common7/IDE/CommonExtensions/Microsoft/CMake/CMake/share/cmake-3.29/Modules/FindPkgConfig.cmake:634 (message):
1> [CMake]   The following required packages were not found:
1> [CMake] 
1> [CMake]    - gtkmm-4.0
1> [CMake] 
1> [CMake] Call Stack (most recent call first):
1> [CMake]   C:/Program Files/Microsoft Visual Studio/2022/Community/Common7/IDE/CommonExtensions/Microsoft/CMake/CMake/share/cmake-3.29/Modules/FindPkgConfig.cmake:862 (_pkg_check_modules_internal)
1> [CMake]   CMakeLists.txt:22 (pkg_check_modules)
1> [CMake] -- Configuring incomplete, errors occurred!
1> Не удалось выполнить команду "C:\Windows\system32\cmd.exe" с аргументами "/c "%SYSTEMROOT%\System32\chcp.com 65001 >NUL && "C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\CMake\bin\cmake.exe"  -G "Ninja"  -DCMAKE_C_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_CXX_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE:STRING="e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/scripts/buildsystems/vcpkg.cmake" -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:STRING="Debug" -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX:PATH="E:/userData/Documents/msvs/gtkmmproj/out/install/x64-debug"   -DCMAKE_MAKE_PROGRAM="C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\Ninja\ninja.exe" "E:\userData\Documents\msvs\gtkmmproj" 2>&1"". Код завершения: Команда "C:\Windows\system32\cmd.exe" с аргументами "/c "%SYSTEMROOT%\System32\chcp.com 65001 >NUL && "C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\CMake\bin\cmake.exe"  -G "Ninja"  -DCMAKE_C_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_CXX_COMPILER:STRING="cl.exe" -DCMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE:STRING="e:/vcpkg/vcpkg/scripts/buildsystems/vcpkg.cmake" -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:STRING="Debug" -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX:PATH="E:/userData/Documents/msvs/gtkmmproj/out/install/x64-debug"   -DCMAKE_MAKE_PROGRAM="C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT VISUAL STUDIO\2022\COMMUNITY\COMMON7\IDE\COMMONEXTENSIONS\MICROSOFT\CMAKE\Ninja\ninja.exe" "E:\userData\Documents\msvs\gtkmmproj" 2>&1"" завершила работу с кодом завершения 1..

То есть установленные настройки PKG_CONFIG_EXECUTABLE не работают. По умолчанию запускается внутренний микрософтовский cmake. Хотя в vcpkg gtkmm установлен.